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If good food is "a celebration of life", as Sophia Loren was once quoted as saying, the place to be living it up in Bangkok these days is Breeze - complete with a celebratory toast to all the finer things life has to offer. And if that good food comes in a gloriously glamorous setting 200 metres up in the sky, life surely doesn't get any better. Welcome to heaven on earth...
The faster-than-lightning time that is takes to travel up in the lift to the 51st and 52nd floors of Bangkok's landmark State Tower building doesn't prepare you for the dramatic entrance you're about to make. Suspended above a lily pond, a 25-metre long space-aged sky bridge - a light and glass sculptural and architectural feat at the same time - culminates in a spectacular vantage point to relish in heart-stopping vertical and horizontal city views. Just arriving and being here is already an experience in itself; the snarling traffic below a reality of another planet altogether.
Continuing a trend-setting tradition
Breeze is the latest elegant addition to the stable of established (and famous) venues at the ultra luxurious Le Bua all-suite hotel's State Tower. Sirocco, Mezzaluna, Sky Bar and Distil already count among the city's finest places to dine, enjoy a drink or simply be seen at, and newcomer Breeze will undoubtedly continue in this trend-setting tradition. Dubbed as a contemporary 'Asian Seafood Restaurant', Breeze pays tribute to generations of Asian cooking methods. But, while remaining true in taste and tradition, the uniqueness lies in the inventive twists introduced by Malaysian-born Executive Chef Ho Chee Boon, and the fact that various types of Asian cuisines are offered on the same menu.
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Nicknamed Ken, he told us: "I wanted to create a menu that is very special. Different. So we have influences of Chinese, Thai, Malaysian, Singaporean, Japanese and other Asian food. The best of Asia." The same best-of-policy extends to the ingredients 35-year old Chef Ken and his team of 50 use in the theatre-style kitchen; he spent the better part of two months sourcing the finest seafood from all over the world, because "there is no substitute for quality. We use only the best". Asked to single out his personal favourite on the menu, Chef Ken hesitated, and then smiled. "Every dish on the menu was very carefully put together," he said modestly - and rather diplomatically. With him comes experiences honed in some of the finest restaurants in his native Kuala Lumpur, Hong Kong, Singapore, Russia and London - amongst them a Michelin star establishment.
Picture-perfect views and sensory sensations
Framed by the Riverside on one side and sprawling cityscapes on the other, imposing staircases lead from either side of the glass sky bridge to a delightful al fresco dining area and a cocktail bar on the 51st floor. On the same level is also a lavishly decorated lounge named 'Ocean 52'. A posh private dining room with infinity edged windows can accommodate up to ten people, making it ideal for meetings and very special occasions. The chic overall elegance, combined with spectacular night-time vistas, trendy ambiance and fresh (apt) breeze make for an unforgettable setting altogether. Style bible Wallpaper magazine seems to agree, and sent a crew earlier that evening to do a fashion shoot...
The proof is in the pudding
But what would a gleaming red Ferrari be without the mechanics to propel it to illegal speeds?! It's time to put it through its paces, so to speak.
Our gastronomic journey kicked off with deep-fried soft shell crab with garlic and curry leaf (210 baht), and crispy fried prawns tossed with wassabi cream (510 baht). YUM. With the main courses arrived more excuses for our taste buds to rejoice: roasted silver cod, caramelised with Laurent Perrier champagne and Chinese honey (2,190 baht), wok-fried kobe beef tenderloin with black pepper and Hunter Valley Pinot Noir (4,100 baht), and a combo of vegetables - asparagus, yam beans, shimeiji mushrooms and morinagu tofu - stir-fried in spicy Sichuan sauce (610 baht). As expected, the presentation is in tasteful nouveau cuisine style, but with ample portions.
Rounding off a memorable meal means not saying no for dessert. The 'Breeze on ice' is a delectable assortment of petit desserts served on ice, and the Portuguese egg tart with birds nest (both going for 320 baht) was simply to unusual to resist.
I am told that the poached South Australian cold water lobster, tossed with chilli marinated cabbage and jelly fish julienne, is a big favourite on the menu (6,900 baht), and so too the braised Emperor's seafood with abalone, dried scallop, sea cucumber, lobster and shitake (6,100 baht). Despite some of these staggering prices, several dishes are fairly reasonably-priced for such a high-end venue, under or just over 1,000 baht.
Making a toast to life
The comprehensive wine list has offerings with prices varying between 1,500 baht per bottle (Chu yen Ching Chiew rice wine) and 134,000 baht (Chateau Petrus, 1990, Pomerol AOC, Bordeaux) - and the full smorgasbord in between. Champagne cocktails, martini cocktails and the classics are all there, together with rare scotches, bourbon whiskeys, single malts, aperitifs, ports, sherry, liqueurs and what have you...
Service extraordinaire
The final important ingredient of the successful Breeze recipe is the service: unobtrusive, swift, helpful and knowledgeable. Just the way the angels like it, I guess. At the moment only open for dinner, plans are already on the cards to start serving dim sum lunches soon - with more than 40 varieties and 200 kinds of tea.
A quick glance at my dining partner tells me the verdict is unanimous. Breeze has just upped the bar. If we were judging gymnastics, we'd both be holding up the scorecard that has the 9,99 in big bold numerals on it. Got to leave at least some room for improvement, like a starry night or full moon next time around...
Reservations are essential: +66 (0)2 624 9555
Location: Lebua at State Tower
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