A touch of Thai
Having passed through the sleek looking passport control - speedy and convenient - it was on to the duty-free and dining areas. I was greeted by a replica traditional pavilion, just one of many Thai touches found scattered around the airport. It cut a fine figure against the futuristic backdrop, but a slightly odd one at that. In fact, it's just one of many contemporary art pieces that has been added to spice up what is a rather anonymous, characterless space. Others include a large sculpture of the mythological tale of 'The Churning of the Ocean of Milk', demon statues from Thailand's Ramayana epic and huge murals. However, one can't escape the feeling that these cultural interludes are afterthoughts that were thrown in at the last moment, rather than a coherent part of the architect's vision.
Eating areas include the usual cohorts like Burger King, Dairy Queen, Pizza Co, as well as a clutch of snazzier looking eateries. Many are colourful, trendy-looking places clearly aimed at a younger crowd, while others are sleek and upmarket.
The departure gates area - a huge, oval, worm-like tunnel covered in a strange silver material - was one of the most striking features. Located towards its end was another traditional Thai pavilion and replica palm trees, a sight so bizarre and surreal you'll be thinking 'wow', followed very shortly by 'why?'. But then that's the whole point I suppose - the wow factor.
Little Gripes and Niggles
Unfortunately, while I was enjoying the overall styling and didn't experience the fabled long walks which many have complained about in this mega-sized airport terminal, there were other minor niggles. My departure lounge felt unfinished. The walls were little more than unpainted bare concrete. The ceiling was uncovered, with naked pipes and cables exposed, and one of the doors to the smoking room was little more than a plastic sheet. On top of that, it was bone cold. The funky, air-con vents rising up out of the floor, created little pockets of chilled air that had us all shivering. People could be seen putting on jumpers, arms tightly folded to keep themselves warm.
For such a bold looking airport from a distance, it's a shame also that the toilets were so unimaginative and drab-looking. While not unclean, they had all the design flair of a public toilet - not a problem, but when the exterior is so arresting you can't help feeling disappointed that the interior doesn't live up to the promise.
Having to get a bus from the terminal to the plane was another irritant. Why, at a new state-of-the-art airport, they can't manage to dock the plane next to the gate, I wondered. But these were all small issues, and nothing that can't be put right.
A space-aged sight to behold
On returning to Bangkok a few days later, I was treated to the sight of Suvarnabhumi at night. Bathed in a blue light, this is when it looks its futuristic best and is truly a glorious sight to behold. Something straight out of the space-age Buck Rodgers.
After travelling past the obligatory duty-free shops, I then sailed through the hi-tech immigration area. Everything seemed to be running very speedily and smoothly at the counters here. As was the baggage claim area. Huge, flashing TV monitors directed me the appropriate carousel, I was greeted almost instantaneously by my luggage, and before I knew it I was out in the arrivals lobby.
An honest soul and a metered taxi
This was where things got frustrating. For one it feels too small. People are squeezed along a barrier forming a disconcerting wall that prevents you from seeing much at all. And then there's the signage. There was no clear sign pointing out where to hail a metered taxi. Making the task even more testing are the many touts milling around trying to push you a pricey limousine service. After asking many people, all of whom said that there were no metered taxis available, I eventually found an honest soul who directed me to the first floor. This is located one level down from the Arrivals Hall.
Bye-bye Don Muang
For some, the old Don Muang Airport had its own special charm. Others argue that it was high time to ring in a new age of world-class sophistication, so as to secure Bangkok's enviable status as a traveling hub in the region. As for me, I'm still undecided. I do want to check out that viewing deck when it's completed though...
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