The heavenly food angels feast on
The heavenly food angels Epicurean debauchery. Nothing more, nothing less. That best describes the sinfully decadent culinary spread that can be enjoyed at River Cafe- & Terrace, the posh Peninsula Hotel's popular riverside restaurant which re-opened in September (2006) after being closed briefly for refurbishments.
If 'Krung Thep' (Bangkok's Thai name) means 'The City of Angels', this must surely be the heavenly food angels feast on. To mention 'debauchery' and 'sinful' in the same breath as 'heavenly food' and 'angels' sounds like a contradiction, but then again this is Bangkok after all...
Let's talk strategy
Many people think that starving themselves for a whole day is how to best 'prepare' for a buffet feast. Uh-uh. That would be the biggest mistake - take it from a buffet buff. Your stomach would shrink, and so too, naturally, its capacity. So, let's talk strategy first, because to think that you could possibly attempt to conquer a buffet of this magnitude without strategy, would mean having regrets the next day. And we can't have that. For starters, a hearty breakfast is recommended. Next up, drinking lots of water throughout the day and eating some fruit when hunger pains set in, is key. Have a light lunch (if you have to) and skip sweet things. Altogether. Snacking is just fine. The secret is to keep your metabolism in top marching form while stimulating your appetite. To make the most of a buffet and how to fit in (almost) everything, read on...
With sensible strategy in place, let's dive in. But first we have to cross the Chao Praya River from Saphan Taksin Pier in The Peninsula's elegant teak boat to the Chonburi side. Which in itself is a charming experience, and perfect too for setting the mood for the auspicious gastronomic exploration that awaits. More anticipation.
It's always a few degrees cooler at the riverside - thanks to a cool breeze after sunset - and sitting outside is the best way to enjoy the sights and sounds on the river. The fog fans (gosh, what are they actually called?) are a blessing too. But if you're averse to heat and humidity, head to the ever-so-tasteful and air-conditioned indoor sanctuary. Not much has changed since my last visit - in fact, I don't notice anything that's different - but I am told the floor has been re-done, the ventilation has been upgraded and kitchen facilities have been refurbished. Oh nice. But now it's time to indulge, thank you very much. Bring it on.
The Layman's Guide to making the most of a Buffet
The appetizer buffet consists of a salad bar, Thai salads and appetizers, Chinese barbecue, a sushi selection, seafood on ice, Western appetizers, a salmon station, tapas and mezze, individual dishes and soup. Some of the personal highlights here are the 'yum ma-maung goong' (spicy salad with mango and grilled prawns), French oysters, Alaska crab claws, marinated rock lobster tails with a chili and sesame dressing, salted duck liver on pistachio biscotti, peppered beef carpaccio, smoked scallops on lemon grass skewers and the seared yellow fin tuna with vanilla, bean and carrot essence. Just to get you started. Which brings me to my next point, 'The Layman's Guide to making the most of a Buffet'...
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The golden rule is to let your eyes scan over the variety first. Choose selectively and only the best on offer, because, technically, nobody can fit it all in. Unless you're okay with being wheel-barrowed unceremoniously out of there - imagine the scandal! So, to avoid regrets or scandal is to avoid the stuff that fills you up quickly. Like bread. Starches. California rolls are a big no-no. Yes, think twice before scooping that big, fat and tempting-looking roast potato onto your plate - even if you can swear it has your name on it. Eat small portions of everything that fancies your liking, and do so s-l-o-w-l-y. You can always go back to something which really blew up your skirt, so to speak. Oh, and take lots of breaks in between. Never, ever rush a buffet. And remember the appetizers are intended to do just that: whet your appetite.
The Main Feature
This is where words begin to fail me, but I'll try my utmost... Main courses are roughly divided into a daily Indian speciality, several Thai favourites like curry soups, a selection of starches and vegetables to accompany (the grilled eggplant and zucchini with thyme are big winners), both Western and Asian 'show kitchens', a pasta corner and individual dishes. Let's take a closer look...
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The two 'show kitchens' are pillars of sensory pleasure. You make your selection, the chefs prepare it to your specifications, and it is served swiftly and minutes later at your table. The best from the West includes lamb cutlet, sirloin steak, chicken kebab, pork ribs, squid, chicken and pork satay, pork and veal sausage, black cod, Swiss snails, red snapper, rock lobster, tiger prawns and blue swimmer crab. And, from the East, the things that brought tears to my eyes were the soft-shell crab with green curry, the Balinese 'kuning' soup and the coral trout with chili sauce in the Dim Sum selection on offer. Sniff.
At the pasta corner, a daily special is prepared 'a la minute'. Like gnocchi with pesto and parma ham. Or angel hair pasta with crab meat and herbs. Then there's still a chef's choice of the day. Lamb rack with braised endives and rosemary sauce, sichuan pepper dusted white prawns with fennel salad, pesto and balsamic reduction - and then some... Oh, the joys of wonderful food!
The Final Curtain
The most difficult part of mastering a buffet is always finding a spot for dessert. So best you always keep a little place reserved. Remember, no regrets. There are eight different cakes, a choice of six desserts, home-made ice cream and sorbet, and a selection of cookies and chocolate pralines. I headed straight for my old-time favourite, the white chocolate mousse. Ecstasy in its purest form, sending my endorphins or happy glands spinning into orbit. Similarly good things can be said of the orange mascarpone and date cake, the pistachio and cherry mousse cake and the coconut pannacotta. Decadence in its most extreme form.
For cheese lovers, an impressive variety of imported French and Australian 'frottage' are offered to be enjoyed with crackers, dried fruits and nuts. The obligatory selection of Thai fruits is there too - in all its colourful and sliced up splendour - to bring the final curtain to a feast that, I imagine, could easily have angels flapping their wings in joy and jubilation.
Excuse me, waiter... Yoo-hoo! I'm going to be needing that wheel-barrow after all...
Cost: 1,250 baht per person (++)
Reservations: +66 (0)2 861 2888 |
