An easy day trip out of Bangkok, this tour kicks off with a visit to Bang Pa-In, the spectacular Summer Place, followed by a lazy boat trip across the Chao Phraya River, and finally to the island of Ayutthaya, the legendary Kingdom of Siam's former capital. Visually rich and architecturally astounding, it is an excursion that inspires. It is also a veritable treasure-house for photographers.
Part One: Bang Pa-In
Sansanee, our guide, is passionate about showing us around. Unlike many guides who recite reams of facts and dates, she promises to take us to her favourite temples and ruins, and is very flexible when it comes to following the itinerary. On the bus ride, she tells us that instead of taking the soulless dead-straight highway, we will see more by taking the national road that winds its way through countryside, past rice paddies and small villages. She points out the various trees on the way and earnestly announces, "On your left is the mango tree. And to your right overhead flies the open-billed hornbill on holiday from Cambodia."
Summer Gardens
The journey is little more than an hour and then we disembark to walk the magnificent grounds of Bang Pa-In Summer Palace, where royalty comes on special occasions. Overlooking the waterways, the many buildings are a curious mixture of turn-of-the-century European styles that strangely compliment the very red Chinese pavilion and bejewelled Thai pavilion. Along the way, we stop to smell various varieties of Jasmine, planted in honour of Her Majesty, Queen Sirikit. We walk through sprawling landscaped gardens, across fairytale bridges decorated with ancient Chinese flowerpots and magenta coloured bougainvillea, stopping at each site to listen to a story or anecdote our guide has up her sleeve. .
Royal Mangoes
She points out where women were traditionally allowed and where the men's quarters began. The floating pavilion, she tells us, was a favourite place of the Crown Prince to sit in the afternoon and read poetry. There are also rumours of royal trysts. The Lookout observatory tower was where royals would do their star gazing or look out over the countryside. And lining the pathways are many mango trees, the fruit of which is reserved for the royal households. Hedges trimmed to resemble elephants and mice, the rabbit and the moon are remnants of a symbolic horticulture celebrating folk tales.
The Red Rooms
We pass an orange stream of novice monks enroute the Chinese pavilion, here no doubt on an educational tour. This is the only building we are allowed to enter. Walking barefoot on the cool ornate tiles is wonderful after the heat outside in the gardens. The interior is richly red lacquerwork and intricately carved ebony. We walk upstairs to view the magnificent furniture, as well as a mind-bogglingly intricate camel bone carving of a dragon.
Crossing the Chao Phraya
We then make our way to the pier and mount a brightly festooned long-tailed boat to journey to Ayutthaya. This part of the Chao Phraya River is beautifully clean and sailing past the houses on stilts, seeing the way people live along the rivers, is fascinating. Along the way we see men fishing, children swimming, and everyone tends to wave in greeting. The boat trip is also refreshing under the shade with a breeze in your face. By the time we anchor, everyone has developed a hearty appetite and we decide to lunch on the restaurant overlooking the river. The food is light and tasty Thai fare. The bus is already waiting for us and we hop in to be taken to long awaited Ayutthaya. Cruising past clusters of crumbling ruins, headless statuettes and ancient stupas evokes an odd sensation, something between trespassing on sacred ground and excitement.
Part Two: Ayutthaya
The first stop on our expedition is Wat Mahatat. Upon entering, you walk among blackened brick and plaster ruins, all reminders of the Burmese raid on this once glorious city. Around the corner in an inconspicuous spot is the incredibly famous image of the Buddha's head entwined in the roots of a fig tree. Nobody is sure of the true origins of the head. Although made familiar by photographers, it is still a haunting sight. We are reminded to crouch if we want a picture taken with the image, as no-one should stand higher than the Buddha.
Golden tranquillity
We move on towards Phra Mongkon Bophit. Outside, children are holding bird cages and praying in acts of merit-making. Streams of worshippers pour libations of lotus oil over the Buddha in preparation for Songkran (the Thai New Year in April). We are happy to move to the shade inside and gaze upon the serene gold leaf covered Buddha image. This very same statue was once beheaded by a stroke of lightning.
The most tranquil smiling Buddha image is found at Lokayasutharam. The reclining statue is 37 meters long and 8 meters high. His head rests on a lotus bud and in the crook of his arm are offerings of flower garlands and incense. His skin is shimmery from being rubbed by gold-leaf bearing visitors. He is draped in a bright yellow robe, brilliant against the sky.
Unusual Images
We head to another temple, Wat Na Phra Meru. This is the original building, with gorgeous columns and fading wall paintings. But most auspicious are the two Buddha images. The first is golden in the half lotus position, surrounded by ornate red columns. The other image is more unusual, a Dvaravadi Buddha image of strange green hue in seated posture and royal dress. This is before he attained enlightenment. Surrounding him in the chapel are truly ancient murals. The reason this wat is still intact is that the Burmese used it as a camp during their occupation. It is from here that they fired canons towards the Royal Palace.
Mysterious Ruins
We approach the Royal Palace with a sense of expectancy. Sansanee waxes lyrical about all the grandeur it once held. However, looking around and walking the expansive empty spaces, it is evident that not much has survived. Pervading the ruins, which have burned to the ground, there are memories, dreams, poetry. The grounds are expansive and one can only imagine. Our guide walks us to the area of the hall near the riverside City Hall. This is where royalty once sat watching the royal barge procession on the Lopburi River.
And with our minds filled with gorgeous images, real and imagined, we set off back to Bangkok, another time and another place altogether.
To book this tour click here. |
