Some of the best things in life are hard to find. Sheepshank Public House falls into this category, depending on which angle you approach it from. Coming from Pra Athit Road, it’s hidden down a small alleyway, but arrive by river boat and disembark at Pier no 13 and the welcome is warmer, with the restaurant lights shining onto the water. For those who are familiar with American cuisine, there are plenty of comforting dishes on the menu. The food is not only easy of the eye, but it has the kind of spirit and flavour combinations that leaves you feeling happy and satisfied. The restaurant is run by Joke, a chef who seems to have an instinct for what people want. He’s also a bit of an interior designer, taking the abandoned boat shed and turning it into the dining room you see now. In case you didn't already know, Sheepshank is a kind of knot, used in sailing. Not a cut of meat as we assumed...
Although Sheepshank Public House has close links to Seven Spoons, the look and feel of the dining room is very different. It’s modern and industrial, working the pulleys and buoys from the restaurant’s previous use into the space. The large windows look out onto the river, and although the ceiling is double height and the room is airy, the dining room feels convivial. In the far left hand corner is the well-stocked bar, which rustles up a decent list of classic cocktails including slings, mojitos and iced teas as well as original mocktails such as That’s right (95 baht), a fresh pineapple and passion fruit juice with Royal project sweet basil. They also serve craft and Italian beers and a decent selection of red and white wines by the glass or bottle.
When it comes to the food, the portions are generous and artfully presented. The special, chalked onto the blackboard in front of the restaurant, is a hearty dish of razor clams with spicy chorizo. This warming dish has a kick of spice from the meat balanced against the sweetness of the tomatoes, with a slice of crisp bread for mopping up the juices. The salads are streets ahead of the usual dreary lettuce leaves. The crab and apple salad in a creamy mustard dressing (220 baht) is incredibly summery and a definite highlight. Using organic, fair-trade ingredients sourced from the region is an important part of Sheepshank’s ethos, and their excitement about unusual produce is palpable. One such dish is the mushroom risotto with Lao ‘pine’ nuts (280 baht).
It’s worth mentioning that there are a handful of great veggie dishes on the menu, including tasty grilled paneer cheese and peach with dukkah (160 baht) and savoury lentil wraps with the restaurant’s take on a Waldorf salad (280 baht). The rest of the menu is divided into one plate dishes and mains. The large oxtail stuffed tortellini (320 baht) shows that simple doesn’t have to mean boring as long as the flavours are highlighted to perfection, and the coffee-rubbed beef tenderloin (980 baht) combines two ingredients not often seen together: the strong, bitter coffee heightening the meaty flavours.
There is a simple dessert menu of ice-cream and sorbet, but Sheepshank Public House is definitely a place to feast on savoury. For those staying in central Bangkok, we heartily recommend a trip up the river to the restaurant, you won’t be disappointed.
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Sheepshank Public House
- Opening Hours: Tuesday to Sunday 18:00 – 00:00
- MRT: Hua Lamphong
- Address: 47 Phra Arthit Road , 10200
- How to get there: MRT Hua Lamphong , Boat Pier Pra Athit (Number 13)