L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon Bangkok opened in early 2015 and sent shockwaves through the dining scene in Thailand. Serving French haute cuisine with a focus on meticulous preparation of taste, texture and style, this is the latest addition to the prestigious restaurant group run by Joël Robuchon, a man who has been called ‘Chef of the Century’ by the Gault Millau guide – and with an unparalleled 28 Michelin stars awarded to his restaurants across the world it’s hard to argue with his pedigree. Although Joel himself is not in the kitchen on a daily basis (he visits frequently and has famously high standards), the kitchen is headed by Executive Chef Olivier Limousin, who previously ran the kitchen at the two Michelin starred restaurant L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon in London.
- Ayutthaya Ancient Capital Tour with River Cruise
- Banyan Tree's Apsara Dinner Cruise
- Bridge on the River Kwai & Historic Railway Tour
- Thonburi Klongs & Grand Palace Morning Excursion
- Floating Markets Cycling & Boat Tour
- Private Grand Palace, Emerald Buddha & Reclining Buddha Morning Tour
- Siam Niramit Dinner Show
- Calypso Bangkok Cabaret Show
- Safari World & Marine Park Full-Day Tour With Buffet Lunch
- Muay Thai Live Performance
But don’t presume that gourmet cuisine means a formal dining experience. At L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon Bangkok, most of the seats surround a large, open kitchen which makes the restaurant feel alive: staff mix and mingle on the opposite side of the counter, asking questions, explaining small points about the food, and generally creating a vibrant ambiance which adds credence to the ‘L’Atelier’ in the name (meaning ‘workshop’ in French). It is all very modern and chic, just like the interior design, which impresses from the moment the lift doors open and a glossy combination of scarlet, black and dark wood envelops you.
Joël Robuchon’s style of cooking is characterised by rich flavours and distinct tastes that seem to shine through the complex arrangements on the plate. Take, for example, the Rosavalt potato salad with rolled cylinders of foie gras terrine, rocket salad and large shavings of white truffle – a light vinaigrette adds lighter notes to this entrée but it is nevertheless dominated by strong, earthy flavours (1,800 baht).
Ingredients are sourced locally whenever possible, although delicacies are brought in to provide the best experience. This is on show on the tasting plate of seared sea scallop brought from Hokkaido, served with a sprinkling of Sologne imperial caviar, citrusy kumquat reduction, baby leek, coriander and French butter adding another layer of depth to the taste (1,900 baht). Pair this with a Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos – available by glass – as the play of light and heavy notes in the food and wine is seriously impressive.
Of course, wine is a central aspect of the L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon experience. With selections from mostly small batch wineries, there is a focus on sustainable, organic and biodynamic wines. While there are expensive bottles in the excellent digital menu, there are many choices by the glass in the 300 to 400 baht range. The team of sommeliers is led by Frenchman Benoit Bigot, a lively character who will no doubt assist you by pairing something suitable.
The whole Dover sole ‘Belle Meuniere’ style is highly recommended, even though it’s a simple, rustic dish, served plainly with a rich butter, lemon and mashed potatoes. It is proof that L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon can stick to classic French recipes when they allow the central ingredients to shine. As for the meat course, the tender, milk fed lamb chops are beautifully enhanced with thyme, garlic and white truffle. This is much preferred to the quail stuffed with foie gras, as the heavy combination of duck liver, butter and potato puree somewhat overrides the taste of the meat. For a sweet end to the meal, there is a dessert trolley of a wide selection of that day’s treats, such as rum baba, mango tart, and strawberry salad – save room because they look irresistible!
Relentlessly striving for perfection, the style, service and food at Robuchon Bangkok have all stayed true to the philosophy of the brand and will delight the gourmet crowd in the city. However, dining here is never going to be cheap, with a lunch set starting from 950 baht for two courses, and dinner from 5,000 baht for a five course tasting menu. For the ultimate experience, a seven course degustation dinner with wine pairing costs 11,500 baht (not including tax or service charge).
L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon
- Opening Hours: Lunch 11:30 - 14:30, Dinner 18:30 - 22:30 Everyday
- BTS: Chong Nonsi, exit 3
- Address: 5th Floor, MahaNakhon CUBE
- Tel: +66 (0)2 001 0698
- Price Range: Lunch set starts from 950 baht, 5 course degustation menu from 5,000 baht