Kom-Ba-Wa is one of the latest high-profile openings to join the emerging dining scene on Soi Suan Plu, just off the busy Sathorn Road in Bangkok’s financial district. The two-story restaurant, framed by a large set of floor-to-ceiling windows, serves up modern Japanese food in some of the funkiest surroundings we’ve seen since eating at Issaya and Namsaah Bottling Trust – two of restaurateur Fred Meyer’s other acclaimed venues in the city.
Open for lunch and dinner, Kom-Ba-Wa features a spacious main dining room, a sushi bar and a private dining room upstairs. A quick glance around, and it almost feels like every surface here has been assigned its own theme; the floor is part-polished concrete, part-ceramic tiled, walls take on bold mix of different colours and textures, classic French candleholders sit on antique furniture imported from Japan, and we lost count of how many different wallpaper patterns we saw. This might all sound like an interior design nightmare, but actually the result is a fun, playful and undeniably inviting place to eat.
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Unsurprisingly, the menu here follows in line with the creativity of the décor: Japanese with a modern twist. The very pretty ‘rosebeef’ (390 baht) tastes just as good as it looks, with the yuzu ponzu dressing providing a satisfying sour and salty kick. The gyozas at Kom-Ba-Wa are also impressive; filled with black cod and served with chili soy sauce (410 baht).
Mains wise, we tried the ‘grilled red and white miso chicken and Japanese leek’ (470 baht). The meat was succulent and fresh enough, but we couldn’t help but think this was just an expensive plate of ‘gai yang’ – a Thai street food staple. Perhaps next time we’ll try one of Kom-Ba-Wa’s more exciting-sounding dishes such as their ‘kurobuta glazed pork with peach sake’ (750 baht) or the ‘fresh Maine lobster with squid ink ramen’ (1,500 baht). They also have a premium sushi and sashimi list too, including scallops, uni and fresh ‘chef selections’ flown in from Japan – these are best enjoyed up close with the chef at the sushi bar at the back.
There’s only four desserts on offer, but judging by their ‘moji with red bean mousse and strawberry jelly’, you definitely shouldn’t skip this part of the menu. Sweet and slightly savoury at the same time, several interesting flavours and textures are discovered as you dig your way through the light and bouncy moji. Being a working lunch, we didn’t indulge too much in the drinks list, but we did spot a reassuringly-long list of sakes, Japanese whiskeys and wine. Find Kom-Ba-Wa located on Soi Suan Plu, less than one minute walk from the entrance of the soi on your left-hand side. They are open daily for lunch (11:30-14:00) and dinner (18:00-01:00).
- Opening Hours: Daily, 11:30-14:00 and 18:00-01:00
- Address: 39/19 Soi Suanphlu, Sathorn Road
- Tel: 02-679-3775
- Website: https://www.facebook.com/kombawabkk