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Bangkok Magazine

  • Bunker Bangkok Restaurant

    Modern American Cuisine in Silom/Sathorn

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    Bunker Bangkok, set in a cool three-storey building in Sathorn, serves refined cuisine, picking dishes from across the culinary traditions of Europe with the addition of some American bravado. Their belief in strong flavours is apparent throughout the menu: salads are served earthy and partially raw, the cured foie gras is especially creamy, the pastas are rich and filling.

    Bunker serves immaculate cuisine, but it's also a fashionable, intimate space with impeccable service – certainly among the best high-end restaurants in Bangkok. 

    The name of this trendy place evokes images of air-raid shelters that's also clear in the interior design. The sparse and brutalist elements of bare concrete interspersed with floor-to-ceiling windows is very modern and casual; influenced by the self-aware sophistication of New York’s dining scene, which is no surprise when you consider Chef Arnold ‘Arnie’ Marcella, had stints in many of the New York’s finest kitchens, including The Elm and Corton (both Michelin-starred restaurants). There’s also a dimly-lit bar on the ground floor playing soul and funk tunes.

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  • The menu is small but accomplished. From the appetisers – or, as they’re referred to on the menu, small plates – the wagyu beef tartare (400 baht) is silky in texture, served with peppered crispy bagel and a side of daikon radish to complement the marbled, oily meat.

    Fresh oysters are always on the menu at Bunker Bangkok and are selected from as far afield as Tasmania in Australia, Washington in the US, and Galway in Ireland. The Galway oysters on our menu, served on a bed of ice with some light Japanese-inspired dressing, were plump and the briny freshness shone through (150 baht each or 750 baht for six). The cured foie gras (550 baht) is served on a soft brioche bun with some piquant berries that really do need to be eaten together – it’s like high-level French cuisine but bolder and with more confidence.

    Chef Arnie has set aside the top floor of Bunker Bangkok for a rooftop garden, and many of the organic herbs and vegetables end up on your plate. Especially in the salad (350 baht), which has raw baby carrots, radish, pomelo and a collection of green leaves.

    Aesthetically, dishes are neatly presented but there’s no overly complicated constructions on the plate. The rack or lamb is still a handsome dish, with two huge, Australian lamb chops with a neatly cut cube of lamb shoulder which is packed with flavour. The dish is served with sugar snap peas, onions and a light jus. The rainbow trout (700 baht) comes whole on the plate but fully deboned so you just get that soft pink fish under the slightly cripy skin. It’s brought to life with a salsa verde type tomoatillo chilli puree and a carefully placed selection of smoked mushrooms.

    Desserts are varied and served in large portions so we definitely advise sharing! The pineapple upside down cake is the right blend of light and sweet but for something bolder go for the smoked cashew and chocolate dessert, which has a a range of flavour that is expertly balanced.

    A new concept added to the menu at Bunker Restaurant is the four-course set menu, which means you can choose your four favourite dishes from the a la carte menu for 1,700 baht – portions are huge too! If you’re looking for a high-end cuisine in Sathorn, Bunker must be a serious contender.

    Bunker

    • Opening Hours: Kitchen: 17:30 – 23:00 daily (Bar: Sun-Wed until 01:00 & Thurs-Sat until 02:00)
    • Location: 118/2 Soi Suksa (Sathorn 12)
    • BTS: Chong Nonsi
    • Tel: +66 (0)2 234 7749
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