Bangkok's history begins at the rivers edge. At the edge of the Chao Praya River to be precise. Over 370 km long and with its origins in four rivers flowing from the Northeastern region of the country, this waterway has been as historically and agriculturally significant in shaping Thailand as the Nile has been to Egypt. Bordered to the west by rugged Burmese mountains, by lofty mountains to the north separating southern China from the Southeast Asian mainland, and to the east by the high, sprawling plateau settled by the Ban Chiang people, wave after wave of settlers moved into this huge river basin to take advantage of the fertile land and abundant fish. In fact, what we today know as Bangkok grew from little more than a small collection of villages scattered among the river basin canals and rice paddies.
A city in the making
However, not until 1762, when invading Burmese armies razed the spectacular old capital Ayutthaya almost to the ground, were the seeds of the Bangkok we know today sown. Prior to this, the country known then as Siam was plagued by conflict and division. Comprised of many city-states that were loosely organized into principalities, it was a bloody place dominated by warring factions and where brute military force determined which state was ruler within a particular area. Amidst the chaos caused by the rampaging Burmese, a Thai general named Phraya Thaksin founded a new capital at Thonburi on the western banks of the Chao Phaya, proclaimed himself king and set about recapturing much of the surrounding country. Perhaps the main surviving legacy of this period is Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn). However, Thaksin become more and more excessive in his behaviour and was finally removed in a coup, declared mad and brutally executed.
Sick of the disharmony and wishing to unify the Siam states into one sovereign nation, government officials and the people invited another general, Phra Buddha Yodea Chulaloke, to become king. He accepted and was crowned King Rama I on April 6, 1782. As Thonburi was deemed not to be an ideal site - located on a bend it was prone to erosion and cramped between two monasteries - one of the first things he did was to relocate the capital and centre of Thai government to the eastern banks of the river.
The Chakri Dynasty
This area, known as Rattanakosin, was considered naturally fortified and almost totally surrounded by water. Therefore it was thought a much easier site to protect against any potential aggressors. Chinese merchants residing on the site were relocated to the Sampeng area and, on April 21, 1782, the raising of the city pillar took place. This moment marked the beginning of the Chakri Dynasty, which continues to this day. Rama I named the new capital Krung Thep, in reference to the past glories of Ayutthaya and, to consolidate the new capital's ruling status, refurbished existing temples such as Wat Po and ordered the construction of two new buildings, Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha) and the Grand Palace. The National Museum, built for one of Rama I's officials, also dates back to this period.
Under Chakri, Bangkok continued to expand outwards, especially due to trade. Extending from Rattanakosin, new communities were established such as Yaowarat (Chinatown) and Pahurat (an Indian quarter). Later, the third king in the dynasty, Phra Nang Klao, extended both Wat Po and Wat Arun. During King Mongkut's reign, Rama IV (1851-1868), the shape and face of the city began to change drastically. Probably the best-known King abroad, he was a brilliant leader who deftly negotiated treaties with foreign powers to prevent foreign colonization. However, he also opened the country up to trade and its beneficial effects. By 1860 many European countries and North America had struck trade treaties with Bangkok, the port had been expanded and in 1863 the city's first paved streets were built.
Modernisation and development
When King Chulalongkorn, Rama V (1868-1910), took over he continued apace with his father's reforms. The building of roads, construction of Thailand's first railroad to the north and the addition of a tramline were just some of the projects he implemented. By the turn of the 20th century, Krung Thep was alive with modernisation, social reform and growth. The foundations for the modern Thai government were laid down. Religious freedom was declared, allowing Christianity and Islam to be practiced in a devoutly Buddhist country. And the large Chinese population were forced to assimilate into mainstream Thai society by being forced to adopt Thai surnames, so reducing racial tensions and violent crime.
In the capital itself, former market areas were converted into residential areas. And Chulalongkorn, having spent much time in various European cities, relocated the Royal Palace to the leafy enclave of Dusit. Here he built the Chitlada Palace and various monuments influenced by Western architecture such as the Thai Parliament Building, marble Wat Benchama Bophit and the teak Vimanmek Palace. The city's Victory Monument and Democracy Moments were also constructed during this time, based on designs by Corrado Feroci, an Italian credited with kick-starting Thailand 's modern art movement.
The birth of a constitution
With King Vajiravudh's, Rama VI's, reign, which began in 1910, came an end to a long era of peace and stability. Though he attempted to continue modernizing, his efforts were hindered by a failed coup attempt. Then, during King Prajadhipok's troubled tenure, another coup, this time successful, brought about an end to absolute monarchy and the introduction of a constitution. This eventually forced him to abdicate in 1935. However, while the city's progress slowed it didn't completely come to a halt. The city's Memorial Bridge connecting it to Thonburi, was successfully constructed in 1932 to promote growth and development, and attempts at improving the city's infrastructure were made by filling in canals to create more land area and roads.
After his abdication, Thailand entered into a long tumultuous period marked by a long line of military dictatorships and the death of Rama VIII in suspicious circumstances. Not until General Prem Tinsulanonda, a moderate, took power in 1980 did some modicum of peace and stability return to Bangkok. In fact, it was this period of growth that saw Bangkok become the vibrant modern and thriving capital it is today.
Bangkok today
Spread over nearly 350 square kilometres and home to an estimated ten million people, it's grown into a sprawling mass of glistening skyscrapers, towering apartments and gridlock traffic with a skyline like that of many other Southeast Asian capitals. However, while economic liberalisation has brought outside influences, styles and mores to the capital, some things stay the same. Rattanakosin, for one, is still the spiritual centre of the city. And Bangkok, thankfully, is still graced by the enchanting splendour of some of the Kingdom's most illustrious monuments. Among them, Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha), Wat Po and the spectacular Grand Palace.
Now you've read about Bangkok's glittering, eventful past why not take a look at its happening here and now, with our A to Z of Bangkok Cool. |
