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Much of Bangkok's history has evolved along the banks of the Chao Phraya river. Wending its way through the heart of Bangkok, it continues to play an important part in daily life. Every day you'll see commuters, saffron robed monks and school children speeding by on fast river taxis, overtaking the heavily laden rice barges making their sedate journey upriver.
For the visitor, the river provides a contrast of the old and the new, with some of Bangkok's most revered temples standing alongside warehouses, old wooden houses, new residential blocks and prestigious five star hotels.
On the Thonburi side of the river (the original site of the Thailand's capital) a network of canals (klongs) still remain connecting the city to the suburbs which remain largely unaffected by modern development. A trip around these klongs offers a fascinating insight into local Thai life and a refreshing diversion from modern Bangkok
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While many of the klongs have since been replaced by roads, the Chao Phraya River ("the River of Kings") continues to flow unaffected, separating the original capital of Thonburi on one side of the river, from today's Bangkok. Many of the historic sights of Bangkok lie on on the banks of the Chao Phraya river which is why it's such a great way to get around.
As well as the local river taxis (Rua Duen) which stop at bot landings along the river, the Chao Phraya Express Boat Company operates an additional tourist Boat service which stops at ten major piers and provides access to attractions like the Grand Palace, Wat Po and the Royal Barge Museum. You can buy a day pass for 75 Baht with departures every 30 minutes from Sathorn Pier (see map) Incredible value with guide and drinking water included.
One of the piers at the end (Tha Sathorn) links with the Skytrain terminus, so even if your accomodation is away from the river, it's still within easy reach.
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The Klongs offer a glimpse into another facet of Bangkok where the quiet rhythm of daily life continues largely unchanged. A world of villages criss-crossed by a network of narrow canals, sub-dividing into even narrower canals, lined with old wooden houses and pots of colourful flowers. If you want to visit your neighbour, it has to be by boat. Small boats taxi locals up and down the river, women in sampans still sell rice and noodles from their "floating kitchens" and people still use the river to bathe, wash their clothes and catch fish. Everywhere you'll see water hyacinths floating on the surface of the river, collected regularly and dried to make the latest trendy woven furniture. A different side of Bangkok worth taking a few hours to explore.
How to Visit Hire a long-tail boat (hang yao) and go exploring. Agree on the price before departure (400 - 500Bt per hour - negotiable) You can hire boats at the Tha Chang ferry pier near the Grand Palace or the pier at the River City Shopping Complex. Fun, but bear in mind, he's your driver not your guide, and his English may be minimal, but he will know the main spots. Ask to explore Klong Bangkok Noi and Klong Bangkok Yai, and alsoat the Royal Barges Museum which contains fantastically decorated boats totally unique to Thailand.
Tours If you want something a bit more more organised (including a pick up from your accommodation) various tour companies offer tours along the Thonburi klongs. The standard "seat in boat" tour from 8:30am-noon, operates around a "floating market" in Thonburi. It's a bit touristy especially in high season, and busy, but not expensive (around 600 Baht) and gives a glimpse of the area. Better still, you can book a private boat with a tour guide. More expensive but more scope to "go as you please," avoid the crowds and, get a lot more information from the guide about what you're seeing. (Click here for Tour info)
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1. A have magical evening - take a sunset or evening cruise on an old teakwood rice barge for a Thai dinner and enjoy the river as the evening falls. Prepare to be stunned by temples, espcially Wat Arun, beautifully lit against the night sky.
2. Dine at one of the riverside hotels - Shangri-La, Marriott, Oriental, and enjoy the view.
3. Have afternoon tea at one of 5 star riverside hotels and watch the world go by.
4. Take a tour to Ayutthaya, the old capital of Siam, and return by river in the afternoon as the daylight falls.
5. Explore the Thonburi klongs. Hire a local boat (just for sightseeing) from Tha Chang landing or take a tour with an English speaking (or other languages) guide who can give you a few insights into local life.
6. Take a trip to Ko Kret. Take a private tour, or take the river taxi and visit the Mon Pottery Village located 25 kilometres at Ko Kret - an island upriver. Complete contrast to the city.
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