The background
These conjoined 20 metre-wide khlongs stretch east to west across the map of Bangkok. Khlong Mahanak was dug during the reign of King Rama I. It is not known exactly when construction began on Khlong Saen Saeb, an extension of Khlong Mahanak, but it is estimated to be shortly before 1837 on order of King Rama III. Thailand was at war with Vietnam and Cambodia and the provision of food, soldiers and weapons needed to be speeded up.
Beginning in the Old City, near the Mahakhan Fortress at the end of Ratchadamnoen Road, combined they run all the way to Chachoengsao, where they end by flowing into the Bang Pa Kong River. Running parallel to Phetchaburi and New Phetchaburi road, they cut through central areas like Phayathai, Pratunam, Chitlom, Nana, Asok Road, Thonglor and Ekkamai, before turning up Ramkhamhaeng Road and on to Bangkapi.
River Boats?
Yes! An 18km long section of these canals are served by express boats (details below) providing a fast, inexpensive means of cutting across traffic-infested Bangkok. They run between 05:30 and 20:30 each day, arriving approximately every 10 to 15 minutes and stopping at 27 piers. Fares range between 10 and 20 baht, depending on how far you travel.
There are two lines - the western line (terminating at Golden Mount) and the eastern line (terminating at Wat Si Bunrueang, near the National Institute of Development Administration). The interchange, at Pratunam pier, feels seamless and tickets are valid on both lines. While busy during rush hour, it's convenient for shopping, sightseeing. There are temples, markets, old simple wooden houses and interesting bridges en route, and it is possible to walk along the banks in many places.
The Experience
It doesn't take long to find Venice. On the edge of Banglamphu, where Khlong Mahanak begins, are a couple of interesting bridges dating back to the King Rama V period. Mahatthai U-thit Bridge, with its Italian Barocco reliefs of a woman clasping a child to her breast, is especially striking. The water though isn't quite so appealing. Waiting at the jetty I'm reminded of a film, 'Labyrinth', in which the characters meet 'The Bog of Eternal Stench'. If you fall in, or even touch it you are doomed to stink forever. These khlongs are Bangkok's equivalent: pure liquid filth.
And yet travelling on them is refreshing. The boats are long and narrow (about 40 feet long, with a width of no more than 12 feet), each seating around 40 to 50 people. You wave them down and wait patiently for two helmeted deckhands to jump ashore, ropes in hand for fastening. The boat overshoots and the engine splutters as it's thrown into reverse.
Just as the boat's hull bangs the jetty, alighting passengers - many teetering on the boats edge - take a leap of faith... This is your chance! Grab the rope that runs around the boat, hoist yourself aboard and swing down to the nearest spare seat. Ready or not, the boat takes off with a jolt.
We sit on tightly packed wooden benches, our bodies veering from side to side as the boat slaloms around curves in the canal, a trail of noxious fumes in its wake. We move fast, watering caroming off the bow and toward the boat, toward us. Thankfully, protection is on hand in the shape of blue and white tarpaulins which you draw up using ropes. Tower blocks whiz past, followed by rows of weathered wooden houses, many adorned with drying clothes, bird cages and pot plants. The crew walks like stuntmen along the sides, collecting fares. We approach a low slung bridge and they duck - that's why they all wear helmets!
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I spend all day hopping on, hopping off, squeezing past stoic commuters going to-and-from work. Unlike me, they do this every day and still manage to look unruffled, despite the noise, the wind, the heat, the stench. It's a thrilling experience - even more so in those moments when I set foot back on dry land and Bangkok, for a few disorientating seconds, goes 'Alice in Wonderland'... 'Oh, I'm near MBK!', 'Is this Thonglor?' Khlong Saen Saeb is like a rabbit hole you pop down, only to reappear again somewhere exciting and unexpected.
The Verdict
Dirty and dangerous... but also handy, vibrant and exhilarating. With ornate Italian Barocco bridges and river boats that resemble gondolas on steroids, Khlong Saen Saeb is the closest to the Venice of the East you'll find in central Bangkok. Pratunam, Siam Square, Thonglor, Nana and the Old City can be reached in no more than 30 minutes - great for cheating traffic! Be warned though: rush-hours are busy and falling in could prove fatal. |
