Khao San Road: What to See & Do

There are no historical sights to speak of on Khao San Road. That said, its location in the Old City (Rattanakosin) makes it an ideal base from which to explore the city's classic attractions. That's not to say there's nothing to look at or admire. On the contrary, being a hub of unwashed humanity means Khao San Road is the perfect place to do some people watching, and only minutes walk away lies the distinctive bohemian atmosphere of Phra Arthit Road.

Ravishing Rattanakosin

The most shimmering sights of Bangkok's Old City are within walking distance of Khao San Road. They include the Grand Palace , Wat Phra Kaew, The National Museum  , Sanam Luang, the Democracy Monument and Golden Mount Temple or Wat Saket.

At the end of Khao San Road on Chakrapong Road is Wat Chanasongkram, the 'Victory in War' temple, and around the corner from there the unsung National Gallery. Then, only a ten-minute stroll away is the leafy, laidback enclave known as Phra Arthit Road, beyond which runs the Chao Praya River. The ferry taxi pier here is a great place to commence exploratory trips up and down the city's main waterway.

People Watching

An environmentalist heads to the rainforests to see wildlife in its natural habitat. The aspiring sociologist could do no better than come to Khao San Road - a densely packed, gritty urban jungle if ever there was one.

Such is the variety of wild, untamed humanity on display, that if you come to Khao San Road to do only one thing it should be to 'people watch'. Spend an evening in one of the road's caf-s or bars, watching the motley procession of varying colours, nationalities and states of intoxication pass by, nearly all of them on a hedonistic mission of some sort. Do so while chomping on fusion foods at a trendy restaurant, sipping a beer or getting your hair braided at one of many makeshift hair salons.

You'll need a long time to classify all the species who roam here, but any even vaguely comprehensive list would have to include: credit-card carrying hippies, blissed-out rastafarians, 'trustafarians' waiting for daddy's cheque to clear, bohemian art students, label-clad Thai clubbers, exotic ladyboys, all-over-body-tattooed human canvases, hip-hop heads, ethnic tribes-people selling their wares, exotic ladies of the night, bronzed serial island-hoppers, and pale virgin travellers carrying backpacker bigger than themselves. The list goes on and on...

Hidden charms

When the furious pace of Khao San Road is making you delirious, and the hangover gets a bit much, there are areas nearby you'll be thankful for - pockets of relative calm that swing to a tempo that's a bit closer to the true pace of Thai life.

The best of these is leafy, laid-back Phra Arthit Road. A mere ten-minute walk from the main strip, this quaint tree-lined road has a bohemian, artsy vibe. Its trendy hole-in-the-wall restaurants and bars are popular with hip young Thais and great for lunch or romantic meals with your (new) love interest.

Come dusk you'll often find talented local musicians strumming soothing, amorous songs. Nestled inbetween it and the Chao Phraya River is the small, tranquil Suan Santichaiprakarn Park, which gives great views onto the river and Rama VIII suspension bridge. With the ancient Phra Sumen Fort standing at its entrance you can't miss it. In the evenings, there are often free activities like music, juggling, breakdancing or capoeira happening.

If you haven't the energy to even venture this far, try wandering aimlessly down any one of the side alleys off the main stretch of Khao San Road. There ou're sure to find a pleasant restaurant or bar where you can sit back and sip on a cocktail or milkshake in relative anonymity. And, on a practical note, Khao San Road, with its ubiquitous internet and travel shops, is a great place to write email, call home or book your onward journey.

Learn more about Khao San Road: Overview, List of hotels, Where to Stay, Shopping, Where to Eat, Nightlife, Getting Around

Learn more about Sights: Sukhumvit, Chidlom-Ploenchit, Silom, Siam, Ratchaprasong, Sathorn, Riverside, Old City (Rattanakosin) , Chinatown, Chatuchak, Pratunam, Ratchadapisek

During the reign of King Rama I, fourteen forts were built to protect the borders of the Old City, but most have disappeared over the years. Only this one, on Phra Arthit road, and the Mahakhan Fort on Ratchadamnoen road now remain. Nestled in the quiet Suan Santichaiparkran Park, which itself straddles the banks of the Chao Phraya River, the hexagonal shape of this pale white concrete fort, with battlements, canons and observation deck are still in good, albeit slightly distressed looking shape. If you come here during the day, combine your visit with a spot of relaxation in the park, or lunch at one of Phra Arthit Road's hole-in-the-wall restaurants. The fort, however, looks its best when lit up at night.

Location: Phra Arthit Road, Banglamphu, near Khao San Road

Proof that the sacred can survive amidst the profane is Wat Chanagonkram. Its location in backpacker enclave Banglamphu, close to Khao San Road and mildly less frenetic Soi Rambuttri, belies both the ancient heritage and the tranquillity of this small temple and its shady grounds. Its origins date back to the Ayutthaya period, but it was restored in 1787, during the reign of Rama I. This was after the famous victory at the battle of nine armies, which explains the name - Wat Chanasongkhram Rajaworamahaviharn, which translates as 'victory in war'.

At the rear is a sedate tree-lined courtyard, including temple housing where monks and lay workers still reside. Within the temple compound is a small courtyard. The windows and gable of the small 'Ubosot', or ordination hall, feature elaborately gilded wood, while inside at the altar sits a famous Buddha image in the subduing mara posture called Phra Phra Buddha Norasee Trilokachet, dating from the reign of Rama I. Around it sit 15 Buddha images from the same period, and also a pair of ebony elephant tusks. There is also a statue of King Taksin, which predates the Chakri Dynasty. In front of the compound sit two chedis in the Jom Hae style, with wide base and sharp top.

Open: 06:00 - 18:00
Where: Chakrapong Road, Near Khao San Road, Banglamphu

Built around one of the few remaining structures of the old city fortifications, Santichaiprakan Park have become very popular with tourists and city dwellers, especially in the evening when the park fills up with families as well as young Thais and foreigners. The nearby Phra Artit Road has several eateries and 'chill-out' pubs and bars. You can also make your way to the infamous Khao San Road, which is only a ten-minute walk away.

Location: Phra Artit Road, Banglumphu

Circled by perpetual swarms of traffic, the Democracy Monument on Ratchadamnoen Road is a large Western-style symbol of Thailand's adoption of democracy and liberty. Field Marshall Plaek Pibulsonggram commissioned it to commemorate the June 1932 military coup that led to the country's first democratic constitution in place of absolute rule. He intended the monument to be the equivalent of the Arc de Triomphe, its European style a symbol of a newly invigorated Bangkok complete with similar Western freedoms. Like most monuments built in a spirit of self-congratulation, however, it came to resemble propaganda more then a celebration of a remarkable democratic awakening. By the time it was built in 1939, the regime had turned autocratic, factions in the regime leading to what was in effect a military dictatorship. Since then, however, it has gained a legitimacy it once lacked, pro-democracy demonstrators using it as a rallying point in 1973, 1976 and 1992.

Designed by Italian-born Thai citizen Corrado Feroci (who later adopted the Thai name Silpha Bhirasi), it's rich with symbolism relating to the constitution's birth date of June 24, 1932.  In its centre is a pedestal, inside of which is a copy of the original 1932 constitution. The four surrounding wing-like structures are 24 metres high to represent the date the constitution was signed, and each one symbolises one of the four branches of the Thai armed forces that guard it. Bas relief sculptures at the base of the monument depict the armed forces both as champions of democracy and as the personification of the Thai people.

Where: Ratchadamnoen Road, Rattanakosin (Old City)

Housed in a former Royal Mint built during the reign of King Rama V, the National Gallery displays work by Thai artists from the 17th Century onwards. Inherited by the Department of Fine Arts in 1974, it includes permanent exhibitions of works by King Rama VI and H.M. King Bhumibhol Adulyadej, traditional murals from early periods in the capital's history, and pioneering Thai modern art. Particularly evident is the influence of Western schools of art, like impressionism and cubism, on recent Thai artists. There is also an area featuring temporary exhibitions of art from home and abroad, everything from painting and sculptures to prints and installations.

Open: 09:00 - 16:00 (Wednesday - Sunday)
Location: 4 Chao-Fa Road, opposite the National Theatre, Rattanakosin
Admission: 30 baht tourists, 10 baht Thais
Contact: +66 (0)2 282 2639